Quito

Squeezed between two mountain ranges, Quito stretches for 35 km. As we came in on the bus the outer suburbs looked dirty, desperate, dilapidated and our hearts fell.  It wasn't until we reached Centro historico, a UNESCO world heritage site that we decided we were onto a good thing after all. Hundreds of years old with colonial architecture, plazas surrounded by churches and some great museums as well as restaurants.

We are staying in a renovated colonial casa, our street

Plaza San Francisco, one of the beautiful plazas we keep chancing upon

This woman was selling peacock feathers, one of numerous street vendors plying their goods

We joined a walking tour that took us into a mercardo. This stall was selling medicinal herbs, the only one we recognised was aloe vera with the largest leaves imaginable

TeleferiQo, took us for a 10 min 2 1/2 km up Pichincha volcano to a height of 4.100m. We walked for another 200m but the summit was bathed in cloud. Views of Quito below.

Impressive cable car, bring it on Franz to Alma!

Quito Culture

Not great art gallery chasers, we read great reviews about the works of Olswaldo Guayasamin, an indigenous artist who was an activist and humanitarian, so decided it was worth our first foray on the trolley bus despite reports of pickpockets.
We were not disappointed. The museum, The Chapel of Man was an impressive gallery to his paintings that were both moving and chilling, detailing the oppression of the Latin American people and mans inhumanity to fellow man. His home on the same property was left as if he were still living there, full of his and collections of art works. At the end we were left thinking about his hope and dreams and what an extraordinary busy man he must have been to create so many works.

See this link    Guayasamin art works

We saw a video of Olswado painting his friend, it took him less than one hour!

A self sculpture of the man himself!

Quilotoa Trek

For the first time we have come into contact with other travellers on this famous hike so we realise we are not entirely in the off season after all. As soon as we piled onto the bus at Latacunga there they were.

Before my very eyes there was a market day right out of the bus!

When the bus dropped us off we were at the Quilotoa Crater Lake.

Crater Lake was awesome

This trek took us through ancient trading trails that thread through gorges and mountains, linking indigenous villages that gather on market days.

Typical pastoral scenery fringed with high mountains and gorges

The accommodation was rustic with a wood fired stove the first night. Jo was quite taken by the method to light the stove with a gas flame thrower, no kindling required!

Market day dawned with a massive effort with a 600m climb to the village of Guantualo. Great having extra time to go off the beaten track, we were the only foreigners.

Deep fried pork took Jo's fancy

While Julie preferred rice and chicken for $1

Our accommodation in Insilivi was our favourite at Llullu Llama with a adobe cottage with exposed wood, fireplace and vast views.

Getting lost was something we experienced often, locals always ready to help 

A typical farm house this one complete with turkeys, geese, ducks and pigs

 Last leg was back to our starting point with a trek round the crater, with the altitude higher than Aoraki, NZ.

We couldn't believe that as much as we snarled and shouted at these dogs they followed us most of the way round the loop and were our best friends

Riobamba

Lots and lots of indigenous people live here in Riobamba, our next stop. I often stop in my tracks and stare at their lovely shawls, hats and earrings.

First was the Puruha nation then the Incas in the 15th century. In 1563 the city was part of the Spanish empire before they became independent. My point being, it's a long history.

We stopped here to climb Volcan Chimborazo which looms over Riobamba but swathed in cloud just when we wanted to climb it of course. We invested in a guide and car to help us ride bikes down the designated path. Pretty steep at first and scary as the route was pretty technical it was fun as we gained courage. Sweeping past vicunas through the tropical montane vegetation was unforgettable.

We started off the day with a bone chilling tramp starting off at 4,850m to the refugio at 5,050m

High altitude made breathing challenging

Next it was off downhill on the bikes, a bit fast for my liking but the guide kitted us out with knee and elbow pads so we would have been fine if we didn't manage to stay upright!

Riding past the vicunas was a highlight, lovely looking and endearing, with its large, forward-facing eyes and small, wedge-shaped head with sharply triangular ears

We hiked to see the enchanting Polylepis trees - also known as “paper tree” which is a native species of tree growing at elevations of 4000 m. and higher. There were also many typical paramo plants like the chuquiragua and cacho de venado (deer’s antler) beautiful colorful wildflowers

The Puruha people have lived on the mountain flanks for centuries, we passed by as the farmers herded their animals and tried to ignore their dogs 

Wonderful guide Fausto 

Typical scene, taking the stock home for the night

The mighty Mt Chimborazo 

Cuenca

Onwards and upwards to our new destination, Cuenca.  Locals said minivan was the fastest so we climbed aboard for a white knuckle climb through mountainous country, higher and higher until we reached the paramo,  Andean mountain grass land.

Cuenca is an old colonial city filled with cobblestone streets,  churches and traditionally clothed country folk. Set in the Andes mountains we are loving the cool air.

A background at the pub will do to showcase Quencas old colonial features as we seemed to have got sidetracked instead of photo taking 

Unfortunately the old town is swamped by motor vehicles with air pollution as well the locals love their barking dogs and karaoke.

At an altitude of 2500 m we noticed the stairs and hill took some added effort to climb.

Day two and a local bus ride to the Inca ruins at Ingapirca. Part of an empire linked by 4200 km of trails, the ruins were and astronomical observatory, aligned to determine the solstis and equinox.

The temple of the sun nearby where the ceremonial virgins who were sacrificed lived! 

The cultural museum with over 5000 archeological with pre Colombian Ecuadorian cultures from 15,000 years ago was a joy to visit. With fossils, tools from stones, arrowheads, necklaces, household utensils, stone chimes, polished and painted pottery and so on there was much to enjoy. Just can't get my head round the ages gone by.

Stone chimes, made a lovely sound

A great ornament dating back goodness knows when 

The mercado on Sunday was a well worthwhile excursion in the rattly old bus. The clever craftspeople are everywhere in the wee towns in Ecuador. Here they're renown for their weaving, see this link  also we enjoyed wood carvings, jewellery, shawls and the classic Panama hats.

Tempting handicrafts everywhere 

Loving the markets, a great place for the locals to have a chat 

Bountiful fruit and vegs from the rich volcanic soils. Everything is organic as chemicals are expensive. Bring it on.

Guayaquil

As we step out onto the streets of Guayaquil the morning after arriving at midnight from the airport to meet our first Equadorians. I thought that this is a funny moment as all the newness hits, but soon it will be our new norm!

We wandered the Malecon with its many monuments, gardens and views of the tidal river. Back to looking for the i site, fighting the heat and humidity as we sweated our way up the Cerro Santa Ana. This is a historic neighbourhood of 400 years old with its cobbled stones alleyways and brightly painted homes.

 Already we have discovered the wildlife, right in the middle of the park, here in Ecuador's largest city!